Shoe and process of making the same.



vv. H. BAIN..

'SHOE'AND PROCESSOF MAKING THE SAME. APPucATioN FILED DEC. 2o. 1915.

atenie May i? i918.

2 SHEETSMSHEET 1.

W H. BAIN.

SHOE AND PROCESSDF MAMNG THE SAME. WPHC/HON HLED Dac. 2o. 1915.

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apeciaeauoa ottenere raten-z.

. .i reuse or time una suina Patented ap t, im...

application nled December 20, 1915. 'Serial No. 67,'231.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be itknownthat l, WILLIAM-H. BAIN, a`

citizen ol the Unitedl States, and a resident of the city of St. `Louis and State of Missouri,have invented a new and useful lmprovementinShoes and Processes oil/lali- `ing the Same, .of which `the following is a specification. f

This inventionrelates particularly to welt shoes, and has to do principally With the 1nsole and shank construction of machine made ,Welt shoes.

The object of the invention is to produce a ,foot-conforming `shoe having aflexible arch and a yclose shank; and the invention consists in having the yinsole. channeled only to the shank onthe inside and using Wlth 1t a shank lipor channel piece secured across the insole and .inseamed to the upper and Welt 1 sediment of the on hothvsides of thesha'nk. .'llhe invention also consists in the shape 'and arrangement of fthevinsole, shank pieceand inseam; and in the Zshoes hereinafter described. as new articles oi manufacture.

Fur-ther objects of they invention appear in ,connection with the 'description of the emcompanying drawings;and phat the invention` consists in is more `pa'nrtlcularlydefined in the appended claims. A

ln the drawings, wherein the same reference-characters designate sim1lar parts 1n the several views,

lill

il in Fig. l;

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Figure l is a bottom plan view ot an insole suitable for use in a shoe embodying one tormof the invention;

Fig. 2' is a cross-section on the line 2-.2

Figs'B, 4l and 5 are `views similar to Fig. 2j, showing modilied forms ot insoles; i

Fig. 6 is a bottom plan View Vof ashoe 1n process 'ol construction provided withan in sole. like that shown in Figs.- 1 and 2, showing the shoe upper lasted to the insole prior to pulling the lasting tacks; i* 'l Fig. 7 isa cross-section on the line 77 in Fig. 6, sh' Wing the shoe ready for inseam- 111s;

l Fig. 8 is a bottom plan viewof the .same after' inse ming, showing the Welt beaten down and xrimmed ready for the outsole;

Fig. 9 is a lcross-section oiI the same on the line 9--9 im Fig. 8;

'inventionsshown -'in the ac- 'which follow the outline ot the Fig. 10 isa View similar to 9, showing the outsole attached; i Fig. 1l is a bottom plan View `ot a modlrlhe insole tor'ajwelt shoe as ordinarily made 4is channeled valong its bottom edge from the heel end ofthe shank on one side around the toe to the on the opposite side, along the full length 'inner side. For the purposes of this inventionthechannel and li'p is omitted from the inside ot the shank part of the insole and mayalso be omitted from the voutside 'ot the shank if desired. A'

Referring to the drawings, wherein the shoe is shown bottom up, the insole lll shown in Fig. l has a channel and lipl extending from the heel end of the shank on the outside around the toe to the shank end of the` lorepart on the inside. A strip 16 of leather, canvas or similar material, shapedk to conform to the shank portion ci the insole, is glued orv otherwise secured to the middle of the bottom face of the insole across its shank portion. 'lhe edges of the strip lo are loose, and are turned up to form lips l? conforming tothe line of theinseam. The lip l? on the outside of the shank lies against the inside of the channel lip 15 of the insole, and on the'ins'ide of the shank it laps rthe end of the channel ,lip l5 at the junction of the forepart and shank and forms an extension of `the insdejof the shank back to the heel.

In Figs. 3, 4 and 5, the insole 18 is channeled around the forepart only, the shank portionk being left unchanneled. ln Fig. v3 the shank strip 16 .is secured tothe insole by thin paste or small tacks sufficient to hold it` in place. during the lprocess of making theshoe. ln Fig. t the'shank strip i6 is secured to the insole 18 by a line of stitch ing 19v which follows the outline oir' the outside ol the shank just inside of the lip 17.

,ln Fig. 5 the shank strip lo is secured to the insole 18 by twol lines ot stitching 20, shanli along both edges at a little distance'insideoi the lips 17. ln the constructionshown in Figs:

heel end oi the shank4 lip l5 along theAlv liti ofthe channel on its ica 3, 4 and 5 the shank portion of the sole may be trimmed somewhat closer than could be done if a channel lip were used, and the sole will lie closer to the upper.

The lasting and inseaming operations are performed in the same manner and with the same machines asfor ordinary welt shoes; and -tliese operations are the same for the several forms of insole illustrated-iii F igs. 1 to 5, inclusive. In lasting, the upper 21 is pulled over the last and tacked alongside of the lips 17 of the shank strip 16 as lreadily as against the lip 15 of the insole (see Fig. 6), the lasting tacks 22 being driven into'the last in the usual manner. T he staples 23, which are set when the lasting tacks are pulled, are readily passed through the upper, insole lip 15 and shank piece lips 17 to hold them securely for inseaming, as shown in Fig. 7.

, The Welt 24 extends from the heel end of the shank on one side around the toe to the heel end of the shank on the other side in one continuous strip, and is securedto the lips 15 and 17 of the insole and shank piece f by the inseam stitching 25 for its entire length in one operation, as in ordinary Welt shoes. The 4shank ends of the counter are l also secured to the ends of the lips 17 by the inseaming. The inner edge of the lwelt is grooved and scarfed in any suitable manner` for ooperating with the particular inseaming machine used. Following the inseaming, the inner edge of the welt and the projecting edges of the upper and counters and the edges of the lips onthe insole and i ,shank piece `are trimmed, and the welt is beaten flat, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9.

Following the inseaming, the middle portion of the insole is .filled with suitable fill- -A ing 26, and the outsole 27.is sewed to the Welt in the usual manner, as shown in Fig. 10.

The insole 28 shown in Figs. 11 and 12 is channeled around the fore-part only, and .in this respect is similarlto the insole 18 shown in FigsS, 4 and 5. The shank piece 29 shown in. Figs. 11 and 12 has lips 30 turned up along itsside edges similar to the yclaim the' following as my invention:

lips 17 ,of the shank ypiece 1G. The shank `piece 29 i'sA secured to the insole 28.by means .of extension.. portions 31 at its ends which are glued or tacked to the orepart and heel jef the insole, the shank portion being left` loose in order to provide `a very flexible .shank'for the finished slice, and tol provide a close shank shoe.

. Itv is evident fro'nrthe foregoing. descripf tion that the invention is Aapplicable invariousliorms to all kinds of vwelt shoes, and.

i' 1. A Welt shoe comprising an insole'y prosaid upper and welt. are loose from said insole alongthe inner edge of the shank.

2. A welt shoe comprising an insole channeled from the heel on the outside around the toe to the shank on the inside, the shank on the inside being unchanneled and provided with a shank piece extending across the under side of the shank, said shank piece having a lip along its inside edge, an upper secured to the channeled edge of said insole,

'and to said lip, and a welt extending from the heel end of the shank on one side around the toe to the heel end of the shank on the other side and secured to said upper and lip.

3. A welt shoe comprising an insole, and

f al Welt continuous from heel to heel inseamed to the insole around the toe and fore-part and loose from the insole along the shank.

4. A welt shoe comprising an insole, a welt inseanied to the insole around the toe and fore-part and loose from the insole along the shank, and a shank piece arranged across the shankunder the insole to which said welt is secured.

5. A welt shoe comprising an insole chan neled around the forepart to forni a lip, a shank piece arranged across the shank beneath the vinsole and having its side. edges turned down and lapping said chainieled lip at the fore end of the shank and inseamed thereto, said shank piece being loose from the insole along its inside edge and secured to theinsole at the heel end ci the shank.

6. A. welt shoe comprising an insole chan neled around the fore-part to form a lip, a shank piece arranged beneath the insole and vhaving its edge on the inner side of the shank piece arranged beneath the insole and having Aits edge on the inner side of the shank turned down, said shank piece being secured to the insole away from its inner edge, an upper secured to said lip and shank piece, and a welt secured to said upper, lip and turned-down edge of said shank piece.y

8. A.welt. shoe comprising an insole, a

v.shank piece arranged across the shank beneath the insole and having its side edges free of said insole and tuined down, and a lOl) counter lappmg said shank piece and inseamed thereto, said shank piece being secured to the insole at the 'fore end oi the shank and free from the insole on the inner side of the shank.

9. An insole for a Welt shoe, said insole having a shank piece on its bottom face loose from the insole at its'inner side and secured thereto at its outer side and provided with downturned edges adapted to receive the inseaming.

10. An insole for a Welt shoe, said insole having a lip around its fore-part and a loose shank, piece on its bottom face under its shank portion, said shank piece being loose from the innerside of said insole and secured thereto aWay from its inner side and said shank piece being provided with downturned edges forming extensions of said lip and adapted to receive the inseaming. Y

11. An insole for a Welt shoe, said insole having a lip on its under side extending from the heel end of the shank on the outside around the toeand terminating at `the shank end of the fore-'part on the inside, and a shank piece on its under side provided with a downturned edge adapted to receive the inseaming on the inside of the shank.

12. An insole for awelt shoe, said insole having a shank piece loose from its under face at the inner side and secured to its un der face away ffrom the inner side,'said Ishank piece `beingprovided with a downturned' edge `adapted yto receive the inseaming.:

13. An insole having a shank piece With a downturned flange along its edge, said shank piece being secured to the under face of the insole away from said downturned flange,

said downturned flange following the inner sidey of the shank of the shoe, from which it is loose and separable, and overlapping the heel seat and fore-part of said insole.

14. The process of making welt shoes which comprises channeling the insole around the fore-part, arranging a shank insole beneath its shank, and secured thereto only along one side away from the edge,

lasting the upper to the insole, and insearn-V ing the upper only to the insole around the fore-part and to the shank piece along the shank, whereby said upper is free of the insole along the edges of the shank and a close shank may he formed.

16. The process of making Welt shoes which comprises arranging a shank piece under -the insole, said shank piece being se# cured to the insole only along one side and having a lip along its edge adapted to re` ceivelthe inseaming, lasting the upper to the insole. and inseaming it to said lip only whereby when the lasting tacks are pulls said upper. is free of the insole along said 1i f A pSigned at St. Louis, Missouri, this` lith day of December, 1915. v.

WILLllAM lill. Hihihi". 

